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8,476 Posts
I think once you get over 300 fps its hard to see fletching. I'm shooting 2" spin vanes with 2 orange and 1 white and can't see the arrow's flight. But then my eyesight is getting worse as I get older.
what is everyone shooting??
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811 Posts
60LB Bear Lights Out. Beman ICS Energy 360 arrows with 100gr Magnus Stinger Buzzcuts 4 blade. :yes:
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799 Posts
I have the exact same problem HM, just hoping for the better, not that white vanes should help much after the impact, bright red would be a more welcome color transition.
I bought a pse bowmadness, set it up and sold it 2 weeks later once I decided I wanted to pay my car off. As a student funds are tight and my buddy gave me what I had into it, saved him time and we have same tastes and draw length. Now that I'm working full time I'm picking up a Fred Bear Assault. Little cheaper than the bow madness and I really like the package deal as a starter setup minus the biscuit. I'll be replacing that with a QAD drop away right away. Shooting Easton super slams, yes I still use aluminum I love the price and don't have problems. Muzzy 3 blade 100 grain brodheads, WalMart broadheads ( whatever is on sale) for groundhogs as they get smoked shooting into dirt. Loved the bowmadness while I had it but after shooting the Assault I can't look at anything else in the 500 dollar range.
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36 Posts
Im currently using a PSE lightning flite
It only has a one pin sight thinking about getting new sights
any suggestions
It only has a one pin sight thinking about getting new sights
any suggestions
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8 Posts
What is everyone shooting?
I have had alot of different bows over the years and now I am currently shooting the Mathews (Adrenilen) Smooth, quite, lightweight and foregiving.
I think it's all what you are comfortable with and what fits within your budget.
If you have an older bow that you just can't seem to hit good with anymore, Go to the local bow shop and have the tech check it out for you.
I have found out from past experience that sometimes its not YOU!!! OR THE BRAND, MAKE OF THE BOW, OR HOW OLD ITS, It can be something very simple like:
1) Your string has stretched so much that your draw length has grown (overtime) and the bow does not fit you correctly anymore. This happens so gradually that you don,t even realize it!!! What you are doing is compensating with you body which is throwing your "form" off!!. You need "Stretch" in the string. Over time, the "Life" has been shot out of the string!! If you shoot alot, I would recommend changing the string every 2 years max! This is cheap insurance, and makes those "string plucks" still, keep your arrow close to the bullseye. Forgivness if you will.
2) Your "Tiller" may have come out of adjustment. (I could write a whole artical on this one) But I will keep it short. This can be caused from various things like the turns on each limb need to be adjusted to the correct settings, the cables have moved out of adjustment or slipped within the locking screws or even streach of the cables or strings over time.
The Bottom line is, A good bow shop tech will start at the basics, Correct Draw length to fit you!!! Set "tiller", Set arrow rest horizontal & vertical, Tune your bow for no fletch interferance and make sure all components are in good working condition.
Something else very simple that has hurt alot of archers is that they simply try to shoot more weight then they admit they can handle!!
More weight is ok for hunting, but you need to work up to it. Never try to tune your bow in just one night or make all you final sight adjustments one night before the deer season. Rather, take a few nights and adjust one site at a time to make sure it is right. (Fitigue sets in and all you efforts can be worthless)
A bow is like a vehical, unless it is matained and tuned correctly, it just wont be running on all clyinders and you will be skipping you way to work. We wouldn't want that, especilly when that Buck-of-A-Lifetime shows up!!!
The "BuckSlayer"
I have had alot of different bows over the years and now I am currently shooting the Mathews (Adrenilen) Smooth, quite, lightweight and foregiving.
I think it's all what you are comfortable with and what fits within your budget.
If you have an older bow that you just can't seem to hit good with anymore, Go to the local bow shop and have the tech check it out for you.
I have found out from past experience that sometimes its not YOU!!! OR THE BRAND, MAKE OF THE BOW, OR HOW OLD ITS, It can be something very simple like:
1) Your string has stretched so much that your draw length has grown (overtime) and the bow does not fit you correctly anymore. This happens so gradually that you don,t even realize it!!! What you are doing is compensating with you body which is throwing your "form" off!!. You need "Stretch" in the string. Over time, the "Life" has been shot out of the string!! If you shoot alot, I would recommend changing the string every 2 years max! This is cheap insurance, and makes those "string plucks" still, keep your arrow close to the bullseye. Forgivness if you will.
2) Your "Tiller" may have come out of adjustment. (I could write a whole artical on this one) But I will keep it short. This can be caused from various things like the turns on each limb need to be adjusted to the correct settings, the cables have moved out of adjustment or slipped within the locking screws or even streach of the cables or strings over time.
The Bottom line is, A good bow shop tech will start at the basics, Correct Draw length to fit you!!! Set "tiller", Set arrow rest horizontal & vertical, Tune your bow for no fletch interferance and make sure all components are in good working condition.
Something else very simple that has hurt alot of archers is that they simply try to shoot more weight then they admit they can handle!!
More weight is ok for hunting, but you need to work up to it. Never try to tune your bow in just one night or make all you final sight adjustments one night before the deer season. Rather, take a few nights and adjust one site at a time to make sure it is right. (Fitigue sets in and all you efforts can be worthless)
A bow is like a vehical, unless it is matained and tuned correctly, it just wont be running on all clyinders and you will be skipping you way to work. We wouldn't want that, especilly when that Buck-of-A-Lifetime shows up!!!
The "BuckSlayer"
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988 Posts
Parker extreme ultra-lite 31.Just installed new tru-glo sites and changed to a octane,hostage rest.set at 60#,28.5" draw and carbon express 30" arrows,blazer vanes and tipped with muzzy 100g 3 blade.Will start practiceing this weekend.This will be like starting over from scratch.I havent used a bow in about 15 years since my injury.Dont know how it will work out,but hope it does.
learning again
start shooting on a blank bale eyes closed for a month,just concentrate on the feel of the shot.Believe me this will be the fastest way to get u shooting right in the long run.Keep your draw weight manageable then start shooting 5yds, 10yds, etc.Highly recommend books by al Henderson or bernie pellerite you will improve drastically.
start shooting on a blank bale eyes closed for a month,just concentrate on the feel of the shot.Believe me this will be the fastest way to get u shooting right in the long run.Keep your draw weight manageable then start shooting 5yds, 10yds, etc.Highly recommend books by al Henderson or bernie pellerite you will improve drastically.
G
Guest
·daimond marquis 30" draw 65lb draw wieght, 7595 gold tip arrows 2 blade rage broadheads, bohning quiver qda ultra rest, limbsavers on limbs and carbon express stabalizer with limbsaver stabalizer attatched, 360 pro release. super quiet shooting right at 315 fps. ps whisker biscuits in my oppinion are worthy of one thing and that is to be thrown away. qda all the way. i also have an eighy yard pin on this bow. have never been so accurate with any other set up.
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811 Posts
I bought some Beman MFX "Bone Collector" 400 arrows with blazer vanes and these things are down right AMAZING. If I really focus I can get 3" groups at 50 yards,and that's with a whisker biscuit. I was getting about 6" groups at 50 with my Beman ICS energy arrows. They are small diameter arrows which means better penetration and they're more wind resistant. I can't recommend these arrows enough. I paid $55 for 6 of them.
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8,476 Posts
Yesterday I picked up 6 Carbon Express Mayhem 250 arrows. Re-fletched them with NAP 2" quick spin wraps. Really good accuracy and seem slightly faster than the easton epics. Went out and shot them just to make sure no flyers. The 250 were with-in my length and poundage range according to their chart. Son and I also installed a string dampener on our bows this year. Guess who bought son's??? We went with Vibracheck backstop models.
G
Guest
·they work great don't they.
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8,476 Posts
Ya they seem to quiet string noise.
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8,476 Posts
Did some shooting with the carbon express mayhems today with the nap quick spin fletchings and very impressed with this combination. I can only shoot around 12 - 16 shots before the neck/shoulder scream but I did some of my best groups. Mind you these were all at 20-23 yds had some 1/2" groups. For me this is very good and an improvement. I was shooting Easton axis 400's.
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2 Posts
I want a new setup... What about a Carbon Matrix?
I have got an old Martin and am finally thinking about upgrading to a newer model. Any suggestions out there? I am sort of thinking about getting ridiculous and purchasing a Carbon Matrix, I found a pretty good review on it: Bowhunt America | Articles
But I can't seem to find anybody that has actually shot one (partly because of the price tag methinks). I know it's pricey, but I want to make sure that I am not paying for the new technology as performance is more important to me than the newest thing... but I sort of just want to go balls out and just buy one at the same time. Any thoughts?
I have got an old Martin and am finally thinking about upgrading to a newer model. Any suggestions out there? I am sort of thinking about getting ridiculous and purchasing a Carbon Matrix, I found a pretty good review on it: Bowhunt America | Articles
But I can't seem to find anybody that has actually shot one (partly because of the price tag methinks). I know it's pricey, but I want to make sure that I am not paying for the new technology as performance is more important to me than the newest thing... but I sort of just want to go balls out and just buy one at the same time. Any thoughts?
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