[lafromla1]

As an avid fisherman for many years, I am finally getting in to deer hunting and after doing my homework, decided on a Tikka T3 Lite .270 with a Nikon Monarch 2.5-10 42mm scope. Most of my hunting will be in Florida and Georgia with an occasional trip to Texas or PA. My question is as follows, I plan on using 140 grain as my base ammo due to the SD of the bullet, but they don't come cheap as most manufacturers are making 130 and 150 grain ammo for the .270 in mass. Since the ballistics are not that much different between a 130 and a 140, can I initially use a 130 grain bullet to scope in towards 200 yds and then fine tune it with a couple of 140's? I am thinking that this will save me some $$ on ammo. Any suggestions would be welcomed.

TIA

 

[turner]

I normally always use a cheap brand/type ammo to sight in my rifles and then finish with what I consider to be a good hunting load. Not a thing wrong with doing that. Actually, upon finding out just how well the el cheapo shot, I've even left it in place as a hunting round (when the bullet is adequate for task). Heck, the better load may even print very close to the cheaper working one.

Depending upon the game you'll be hunting the 130gr in a .270 can be a perfectly adequate round and it's one many use for most of their hunting with a .270. I have all three of those (130, 140 & 150) bullet weights in use in my .270's. For deer-sized animals it would matter little which weight you end up shooting IMHO (or which your rifle prefers)

I have a pre '64 FW in .270 I bought a few years ago that came with a little cut-out of a target showing a very impressive 3 shot group @ 100 yds. I took it to the range for initial work and got good, but not great groups shooting an assortment of bullets and weights. The next trip I had found a box of plain Jane Win PP/150s and tried them. Voila, a tiny cloverleaf with that basic loading.

You never know what's gonna work....

Oh, by the way, I almost forgot, that's an excellent rifle, cartridge & scope combination you got !!

 

[spiker]

Many consider the 270 & 130 the finest whitetail medicine ever made.You dont need the 140gr if the 130 shoots good.Its a devastating combination on whitetails.

 

[lafromla1]

Thank you both for the info. I think I'll start with a box of Remington Core-Lokt Express PSP 130 grain and go from there.

 

[Karl.Luhr]

Mounting you new scope on your Tikka..

Take your time mounting your scope on your new rifle. Making everything tight and possitioned correctly is sometimes not as easy as it would appear. If you have never done it before ask around if someone you know has done it and will help you do it. Another option is to have it mounted by a gunsmith at the store you buy the rifle and scope. Unfortunately many people call themselves a gunsmith and they are not qualified to use the title. I have fixed a bunch of scope setups that had been professionally mounted. The only thing good about it is I don't think they were charged much for the crappy job that was done. One last note is on with bore sighting using an optical tool at the store that supposely gets you close and saves alot of adjusting. If a shooter takes the new setup to the 25 yard range and adjusts it dead on there prior to moving over to the 100 yard range bore sighting at the store is an unneeded expense in my opion.

Karl

 

[Hunting Man]

Karl, that's how I sight in too. Setup a large 3x3 target at 25 yds. After getting things 2" above zero, I move out to 100 yds and normally set at 1" high. That covers most of my whitetail needs. I finally purchased a front adj tri-pod rest and rear sand bag set up. I need to sight in a Rem 870 with a 1.5x5 Leupold and the Win 88 with a 4x12x40 Pentax. Still need a scope for the 250-3000 Sav, I need a 38mm obj lens/med high rings to clear the rear sight. I could remove it but then I'd probably scratch the thing trying. I mount all my own scopes and have never crushed a tube, that's half the battle just knowing when things are tight but not over tight. I think most people can so a good scope mount just take your time.

 

[Karl.Luhr]

My idea of scope mounting

I personally like to use the non permanet lock tight on mount screws attaching them to the rifle. I always worry about screws that could loosen without having a way to check if they are. You are now asking for an OOPs after saying you have never kinked a scope. I find a lot of shooters new to the sport don't have the scope possitioned correctly for the correct eye relief in the rings. It is an easy fix if the tube is long enough for the required adjustment. You can always tell when they have to move their head forward prior to each shot because the scope is to far forward. It is understandable to be wanting some extra distance between their eye and the rear of the scope. It is just not what you want to be doing when you should be pulling the trigger.

Karl

 

[spiker]

Many poorly mounted scopes (eye relief) have resulted in scope eye.Gladly i can say ive never been on the recieving end of this.

 

[Karl.Luhr]

As long as no one gets hurt

I have to admit it is funny to see it happen as long as no one gets hurt.....

Karl

 

[Hunting Man]

I haven't had the eye blood either, but have watched it happen twice. For whatever reason I require the scope back pretty far on the stock, works for me though. Karl, I hope I didn't jinx my next scope mount and crush a tube! Clear fingernail polish on the threads has worked in a pinch to hold them too. Not on the nails if you are asking!!! :surprised:

 

[Guest]

By :I look at the aw

By :I look at the award this way this is an acknowledgement of the sea cnghae in the regard in which the US is held *around the world* as a result of the man's approach to governance as if everyone actually mattered. I don't necessarily agree that worldwide opinions of the US have cnghaed dramatically since President Obama came into office. Perceptions of our country are based on a variety of cultural and political influences, and election of a president, even President Obama will not easily cnghae those perceptions. However, even if that were the case, giving him an award like this before he has had any time to accomplish anything will not help our standing worldwide. I think it will only contribute to the perception that the US has an oversized sense of entitlement. Here's an example of what I mean. One of my Venezuelan friends cnghaed his facebook profile picture yesterday to a picture of President Obama with the caption Do nothing, win a Nobel Prize. He was pretty disgusted by it. Anecdotes like these do not equal data, but I really don't see most people around the world approving of this gesture. Rate this comment: 0 0

 

[rdrader2002]

Thank you both for the info. I think I'll start with a box of Remington Core-Lokt Express PSP 130 grain and go from there.

There are three generations of us deer hunters that use that very same combination. .270 and 130 gr. Core-Lokt. Deadly combo on white tails indeed.:thumbup:

 

[D*N*R*]

hunting man gets it. start close with a big target. get a group. you will waste less amo being off target.:bag:

 

[kemster99]

new scopes , i start at 25 yds also. although i don't care for the laser or mechanical bore sighters. I just pull the bolt on my bolt actions and bore sight by eye at 25 yds. done that with the AR also. had my 30-30 and Mini bore sighted with a laser from a gunsmith. both weren't even on paper at 25 yds.

 

[turner]

new scopes , i start at 25 yds also. although i don't care for the laser or mechanical bore sighters. I just pull the bolt on my bolt actions and bore sight by eye at 25 yds. done that with the AR also. had my 30-30 and Mini bore sighted with a laser from a gunsmith. both weren't even on paper at 25 yds.

Unless it's one of those shell type lasers, that actually get chambered, I've never seen one work worth a poop! I do have an older Bushnell Collimator type that has done a good job for me for many years. A barrel specific stud in the barrel and the collimator with a grid pattern to set the crosshairs against. Very rarely has it missed hitting paper at 50 yards and in several cases gave me darn near a hunting-worthy group at 100 yards. This type also works great if simply changing out a scope on a rifle that's already scoped and sighted in. Check the old scope, replace with new one and reset to the exact same spot and voila!:yes:

Of course as you've said, on a bolt gun the tried and true method of removing the bolt works well all day, every day. :thumbup:

 

[lafromla1]

Funny you should say that. I had a buddy bring over his laser attachment and we scoped it in at about 20 yards. Then I ordered a shell type laser that sits in the chamber and it showed that the scope was slightly off. Taking it to the range tomorrow to officially scope it in. Will bring back a report when finished.

 

[Hunting Man]

I have a one piece mount for the Win 88 but I need additional rear scope movement. Currently its snug up to the front bell. Not sure if a two piece mount will afford more reward scope travel? I need an extra 3/4 " to be perfect for me.

 

[turner]

I have a one piece mount for the Win 88 but I need additional rear scope movement. Currently its snug up to the front bell. Not sure if a two piece mount will afford more reward scope travel? I need an extra 3/4 " to be perfect for me.

There is a 2 piece base set by Ironsighter that seems, when compared to the Weaver 1 piece, to have the cut-out for the front ring to be between the two screw holes, rather than in front of both holes. I cannot remember if the last one I bought for my M88 had more than two slots as Weaver did for the 7400/7600 one piece bases, allowing for easier scope placement. I'll look at both my M100s and M88 and check later (same bases). Here's a link to the other two piece mount:

Ironsighter 2-Piece Weaver-Style Scope Base Winchester 88, 100 Gloss - MidwayUSA

 

[Hunting Man]

Thanks for the info!! and help

 

[Karl.Luhr]

Getting enough scope adjustment...

I had similar problems scoping a Ruger Number 1 International. I tried a special aftermarket scope base system and still could use the scope farther back.

Karl