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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just thought I would post a few pics of knives now and then. Here are a few "kit" knives meaning that I bought the blades and just finished them. I thought that they would make good boning knives. Buying the blades makes it inexpensive and fast to put together. These are made from AUS-8A stainless steel and the six inch blade is very flexible. The handle materials are canvas micarta, wood, and black paper micarta.




 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
More Kit Knives

These kit knives are actually sold as steak knives. The blades are five inches long and 1/16" thick. It is fairly stout and should work well for removing meat from the leg bones. I am guessing that the steel is either 440A or AUS-6A. Handle materials are black paper micarta and canvas micarta. It is really inexpensive to get knives this way. I probably only have $15 into each one. Granted, they won't hold an edge as long as if I had ground them myself out of ATS-34 or CPM S-30V, but at this price it is a quick and easy way to play with different sizes, shapes and handle materials.


 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Finished another fillet/boning kit knife today. This is the last one of them for a while. It has a Diamondwood handle.



I started three more hunting knives. Here they are rough ground from 1/8 inch thick D2. I don't have a drop point for myself anymore so I am keeping one of them. The other drop point is going to my brother-in-law who just started hunting this last season. The bottom skinner is for a friend at work. I thought that it would be fun to take pictures of them as they progress through the process.

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Here are six blades all ground and back from being heat treated. Now to polish them and put the handles on. Two of the un-ground knives in the post above are in this group.

 

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I see it's up for donation. If you feel like selling it and donating the money send me a price quote and lets see if we can make a deal. Very nice knife!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Here is the bottom knife in the picture of six. It has an elk antler handle. I hope to get two more done tomorrow.

 

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Very nice looking. I love knives period. How many hours are involved from start to finish? I got your pm regarding the other knife,
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Let me know what you decide. I don't mind either way. but I need to let the church know if it will be in the listing or not.

As far as number of hours goes, it all depends. The steel work is anywhere from less than an hour to three or four hours depending on they type and thickness of the steel and the complexity of the shape/grind. The handle is generally two to four hours for the same reasons. Any type of brass or stainless guard will add an hour or two. None of this is counting the heat treat time which can take from one to four weeks, or the epoxy cure time which is 24 hours. If I purchase a sheath that is pre-made but unfinished, it takes me about an hour to finish it not counting drying time. If I make a leather sheath from scratch, it takes me about four hours to build it not counting drying time. I can make a nice leather sheath, but I am not very fast at it. Therefore I like to buy them if I can.

So to answer your question, it takes anywhere from 3 to 14 hours of my time to build a knife from scratch. That is why the simple kit knives are so easy. There is no steel work and the handles are basic. I can have one done in a couple of hours and only invest about $30.
 

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The top one reminds me of the old Shrade sharp finger or little finger design I think they called it. Both are nice working man models, congrats !
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The top one reminds me of the old Shrade sharp finger or little finger design I think they called it. Both are nice working man models, congrats !
I actually designed it from the Schrade Sharp Finger. It is a little different so I could grind it from 1" wide steel. The original Sharp finger needed wider steel. My Grandfather had one and he liked the shape, but he didn't think that it held a very good edge. This was my solution. I generally make them out of D2 (like this one is) or CPM S-30V, and they hold a very good edge that way.
 

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Here's the hunting side of my knives. Swiss army was my Dad's as well as the small folder next to it. Bottom one is Army issue and for home defense :bag:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Nice! I really like those three hunting knives that are grouped together on the upper left side.
 

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The top left knife is my primary boning knife. The third knife down on the left is a handle from my Hawken rifle project and is maple. I wanted a simple looking knife to tag along with the flintlock rifle. Favorite knife is the fourth knife down on the left a Wilderness knife works model with a nice walnut handle, good balance and hefty steel. These are made in Rapid River in the UP of Michigan. One of the owners I believe worked for Marbles Knife Co and started his own shop. These are nice quality knives, but very affordable for hunters, running about $100.00 when I purchased it.
 
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