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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
One "click" in a given direction (windage or elevation) is equivilent to 1/4 what?

Help me understand the click graduations on Scope adjusters, and the impact (inches) they make on elevation and windage.

(I wonder, if in Military terminology, that's where the idea of "clicks" came from when you'd here a soldier say, "It's 3 clicks.")

If my first shots with the 45-70 are (let's say) 3" left, and 1" low. I'll have to adjust the Scope with how many clicks (assuming to set the greater distance variant first) in either direction?

(By the way, are those knobs easily turn able by hand, or do you need a tool?

-Soupy1957
 

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The standard sight-in distance is 100 yards.4 clicks equals 1 inch of movement at 100 yards.1 click equals 1/4 inch movement at 100 yards.Some scopes have slotted adjustment knobs(use the edge of a quarter or a screwdriver).Others are knurled for finger adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, this particular Scope (Bushnell Trophy XLT) seems to have a notched graduated movement that should be able to be moved by hand.

4 clicks = 1 inch..............got it!!! Same for both elevation and windage?

-Soupy1957
 

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When I sight in I wait for the day with the least wind, a nice calm day is suitable. Some people like their scopes dialed in at 3 or 2 or 1 inches high on the bullseye at 100 yds. That will make up for bullet drop on those really long shots. Myself, I like the dead on at 100 yds because I won't shoot much farther than that. Just be sure to look at the dial because it tells you which direction to turn in order to get closer to your target......1 click=1/4 inch high, low, left, right- depending on what dial you are adjusting and which direction you turn it. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yep..........helps a lot! Thanks! Not zeroing in the gun on a windy day makes sense.

-Soupy1957
 

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To center your rifle:

Start at 25 yds with your rifle on a rest or steady on a table, I use an old sawhorse. Fire 1 shot directly at the center. If you feel like your shot was well aimed and there was no breathing problem or twitch with your shot, then don't fire another.
Now, look through your scope and put the cross hairs on the bullseye and while you steadily hold them there, have someone else adjust your elevation and windage until your cross hairs are on your first shot hole. At this point your rifle is centered.

To Zero your rifle

Now, move back to 100yds and turn your scope's magnification up as high as it can and take three very steady and comfortable shots. Go to your target with a black sharpie marker and draw a triangle around the first three shots. Now, measure in inches how far you are off from bullseye and then do the calculation 1/4 of an inch = 1 click. So if you are 2 inches to the right and 1 inch high, you'd move your scope down 4 clicks and to the left 8 clicks. Then repeat the process. Fire 3 more shots, go mark them with a triangle and repeat until you are satisfied with your grouping. Use a great deal of patience while doing this! Also, make 100% sure you are steady when each shot is taken. I recommend using a table where your back elbow can rest and your front elbow can rest AND have a sand bag to rest the forestock on.

Hope this helps!
 

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When you adjust the scope turn it in the direction you want the bullet to go. If your high and right turn down and left. Tator said it but i think it needs emphasized. Many times at the range i see people trying to "chase" the bullet instead of "chasing the bull".
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Great advice everyone!! Thanks!! I'll keep this info handy!! With regard to the screws on the top of the Receiver, that I have to take out for placement of the Weaver Base..........are they typically a slotted head screw (I didn't happen to notice, on the gun I'm picking up Sunday).

Given the fact that it's not a "new" gun, how hard will these screws be to remove?

I wonder how the new screws that come with the Weaver Base Plate are kept from being too deep in the Receiver, interfering with bullet transfer?

-Soupy1957
 

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Yes typically factory plug screws are slotted. The base manufacturer has the makers dimensions for depth, thread size, and such. If the receiver has no surface rust or damage the screws should remove fairly easily. I dont believe the screw holes pass into the chamber.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
JayzDaddy: Thanks! I figure that Scope Mount makers are designing Mounts in accordance with a "standard" for most guns; which must be true.

I have a close friend who has not only been a gun owner for many years, but also is a Draftsman for Smith & Wesson. He used to work with me in MY company, and we have a close working relationship when it comes to blueprint interpretation. From experience, I have every confidence that Weaver knows what size screws to use. Just figured I would raise the question in case anyone came upon an issue in "fit" that I should be aware of, is all.

-Soupy1957
 

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Where you find your differences mainly are foreign vs domestic thread sizes and how deep in the receiver they tap. A Marlin 336 screw vs. a Remington 700 screw could have 1/8 to 5/32" length difference and if your erred on the long side by 1/16 it could have enough slop to change impact each shot but not enough for you to find without trial and error changing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Where you find your differences mainly are foreign vs domestic thread sizes and how deep in the receiver they tap. A Marlin 336 screw vs. a Remington 700 screw could have 1/8 to 5/32" length difference and if your erred on the long side by 1/16 it could have enough slop to change impact each shot but not enough for you to find without trial and error changing.

Being a "QC" guy by trade, THIS was exactly the kind of answer I was looking for, with regard to the question of screw depth that came up during this thread topic. Thanks!!

-Soupy1957
 

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Absolutely.... Back in high school (20 years ago) i worked in a small town small walmart type place in the sporting goods department. I went in green only knowing how to load and shoot a FIE single shot 12 guage. That first fall i sold, accesorized, and scoped more guns and bows than i had ever saw before. I think at the time there were about 40-50 bases on the shelves. Thats 1 manufacturer and not including stainless. The differences were the crown on the receiver, 1 and 2 piece bases, and screw depth. There were bases that fit many different brands but the difference were the screws.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I saved myself a lot of aggravation yesterday when I went to pick up the 45/70, by asking THEM to install and level the Scope I had bought the week before. The only change that was made, after the install and before I left the store, was that he adjusted the X-Axis for me a bit, since my eye told me it was about 2º off. Oh, and they did go from a medium height Ring set, to a "High," because the Bushnell Trophy XLT Scope hit the rear sight with the Mediums.

-Soupy1957
 

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A true mounted scope does appear slightly askew. The difference is the angle you tilt your head when you lay on the comb. Most people feel something is off but dont know exactly what it is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The adjustments that were made per my request were satisfying to my eye and not dramatic in nature. I'll take it under advisement that a slight tilt is natural. Makes sense really.

-Soupy1957
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Update: I had taken the rifle to the firing range yesterday, and my son in law and I shot about 20 rounds thru it.

-But-

I did NOT know if the scope had been "bore sighted" by Cabela's or not (they installed the scope for me).

-so-

In spite of the "clicks" I put to the scope at the firing range, I deemed them useless until (logically) I had "bore sighted" the scope.

Not knowing exactly how to do this, I searched on YouTube til I found a video about it. The gentleman in the video was showing how this could be done at home.

I set up the target on the back door of my house (inside) and set up my rifle (level front to back, and side to side, and firing pin and ejector pin removed) at the far end of the living room (obviously I had a clear line of sight to the back door), which was almost exactly 25 feet.

I had my wife move the target up and over until one of the bullseyes on the target was in line with the bore of the gun, and mark a clear dark center circle on the target.

Then I focused the scope, and moved the windage and elevation adjusters, until the crosshairs were on the center dot.

Done...........

Now I need to get BACK to the range and re-check the "fine tuning" of the Scope.

Live-n-Learn, as they say.........

-Soupy1957
 

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If the scope was that far off,start at 25 yds at the range.Make adjustments there before going to 100 yds.Make sure the screws on the base and rings are tight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
If the scope was that far off,start at 25 yds at the range.Make adjustments there before going to 100 yds.Make sure the screws on the base and rings are tight.

Good points, all. As a matter of fact, I had to make a good number of click adjustments in both directions during the bore sighting setup.

-Soupy1957
 
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