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12-11-2010, 10:02 PM
|  | B&C 140 Class | | Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 819
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I always read reviews before I buy something. But if 98% of the reviews are 1 star...then I would bet that its not worth the box it came in. Once you get it set up tell me how it runs...I hope it works out for you.
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12-17-2010, 10:01 PM
| | B&C 140 Class | | Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Minnesota
Posts: 611
| | Buy a reloading manual and read it...
I recommend that you visit a couple of gunshops in your area and check out their reloading manuals. All the major manuals have a couple of chapters on how to reload. Some are written better than others. Compare in the store and bring one home. The most important thing is ask while you are in the store if they offer free classes/seminars in reloading. I have several gunshops that I know of that offer the classes a couple of times a year because it makes sense to show shooters how easy it is to load your own. I have taught a half dozen shooters to reload and it was fun for both them and me while I was doing it. Two things I like to instill in new reloaders is that it is something that you need to be not distracted while you do it. Watching football or nascar while you load is in my opinion a bad idea. The other is if you want to load hotter than the factory loads ammo you can get into trouble. Manuals are conservative, that is a good thing. Some rifles/pistols may have a tight chamber or bore. This will cause the pressure to be higher than what they saw with the test fixture. Expect to load accurate ammo that provides similar velocity to the ammo you can get loaded from the factory. The new Superformance ammo is not reproduceable without getting the special powder not available to reloaders. I like basic single stage presses, they can be either c type or o type. I think that all reloaders need a beam scale to accurately verify their powder charge. I also think you need a powder measure so that you don't need to weight every powder charge, it really slows up the process.
Karl
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12-28-2010, 07:28 AM
| | Scrub Buck | | Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1
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I started reloading about two months ago and have a lee turret four hole loader kit and load 270 win. A good loader for the money but be sure to use there instructions and go slow. I also use a scale to check the auto loading powder charge and do it four or five times to make sure it is set and then check it about every ten loads to make sure it is still as it should be. It has been ok but i just do it for safety. get a good book for reloading and start out light and work up to the load you want.
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02-19-2011, 11:26 PM
|  | B&C 140 Class | | Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Belvidere, Illinois
Posts: 799
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I had a lee turret type press back when I started reloading, 1980ish. it was OK but I unloaded it after a very short time and got an RCBS rock chucker and still have that to this day. The problem I had with the turret type press was there was too much play in the turret when the ram was fully extended. I needed something more rock solid for full length resizing.
the concept of being able to have all your dies installed and preset was at the time a good one but, I just learned to deal with doing all my cases one process at a time. for straight wall cases there was the green machine, which was a multi station progressive loading system. which basically means, once set up, a cartridge with every pull of the handle.
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The Devils Advocate Revelation 22:17 | 
02-20-2011, 10:47 AM
|  | B&C 140 Class | | Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 819
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I use an RCBS JR press, its very solid.
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03-12-2011, 04:25 PM
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i have the rock chucker, rcbs, its slow but thats a good thing if you are building ammo that your season may depend on. the turret type presses are good for mass quantities. i haven't reloaded for a long while, since about 95, only because i found horandy ammo was as good as i was willing to produce. i wasn't really interested in becoming a machinist and going to the enth degree. with the cost of ammo, my 338 RUM being about $125 a box of 20, going through the ceiling, i will be starting up again. i just need the space to do it right and thats not out in the barn. someday one of the kids will leave home and then its my gun crap space as the wife puts it.
sorry i strayed, slow is a good thing when it comes to reloading. to answer the original question from the first poster, there is no short cut really. you need to methodically work on loads that suit your needs and work best in your firearms.
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05-16-2011, 04:49 PM
| | B&C 100 Class | | Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: s.w. kansas
Posts: 168
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Most lee equipment is cheaply made including the dies. Not to the closest specs. You get what you pay for. RCBS and Hornady make good equipment at reasonable prices. Read a manual and go slow. If you load magnum cartridges and for just your own rifle neck sizing is the way to go. It will extend brass life dramaticlly, but the brass can only be used in the gun it was originally shot in until it is full length sized again.
__________________ guppy11 | 
05-19-2011, 08:24 PM
| | B&C 140 Class | | Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Minnesota
Posts: 611
| | A case trimmer is something that you will need...
I was re-reading these posts and noticed no one listed a case trimmer. If you load a case enough times probibly 4 or 5 you will need to trim it. The easiest way is with the rotary case trimmers. You will also need a micrometer to check the case before and after trimming. There is also a little tool that champhers the end of the case after trimming. Is sounds like you will be buys stuff forever but it will last a life time.
And it is fun...
Karl
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05-29-2011, 04:06 PM
|  | B&C 140 Class | | Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Belvidere, Illinois
Posts: 799
| | Quote:
Originally Posted by Karl.Luhr I was re-reading these posts and noticed no one listed a case trimmer. If you load a case enough times probably 4 or 5 you will need to trim it. The easiest way is with the rotary case trimmers. You will also need a micrometer to check the case before and after trimming. There is also a little tool that champhers the end of the case after trimming. Is sounds like you will be buys stuff forever but it will last a life time.
And it is fun...
Karl | Karl.Luhr,
I know what you meant, but for those that are new to reloading, to reliably check your over all case length, you will need a vernier caliper, not a micrometer. except for special use requirements, micrometers are generally for measuring small components 1.5 " or less. a 6" vernier caliper is pretty much a standardly available instrument and can be had for a reasonable am out.
__________________
PSE 2006 FIRESTORM LITE #70
PSE 2009 TREESTAND GX #70
PSE 2010 1/2 AXE 6 #60
PSE 2011 EVO #70
The Devils Advocate Revelation 22:17 | 
10-05-2011, 07:30 AM
| | B&C 100 Class | | Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: San Antonio Texas
Posts: 45
| | Read a manual first! I use Hornady Bullets there for use the Hornady Manual. Then come up with questions you may have and ask them here. BE VERY PATCHIENT once you have the process down you can then tweak and have fun experimenting within the parameters set forth in the manuals. As for the press debate, I use a Hornady Single Stage press for all my rifle ammo. I also shoot comp pistol so go through about 500-1000 rounds a week in 40SW so I use a Dillon 550B for pistol. I used a Lee Turret press for years before the Dillon but for HANDGUN AMMO ONLY!!!!!!!!! |  | | | Thread Tools | | | | Display Modes | Linear Mode |
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