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-   -   help with bullets and sighting in (http://www.deerhuntersclub.com/forums/muzzleloader-hunting/9928-help-bullets-sighting.html)

Unregistered 08-24-2012 02:08 AM

help with bullets and sighting in
 
I've hunted with my 30.06 and 270 win for years, played around with patch and ball muzzleloaders and just got a Traditions Evolution .50 cal inline muzzleloader with a cabelas powderhorn scope to hunt with this season. using loose powder and #11 caps. First day at the range I used 240g Traditions plinkers sight in bullets and played with the charge and settled on 90g. Sighted it to a 2" group at 100 yards, figure practice would bring it in tighter. a week later back at the range, the first shot out of a clean barrel was a perfect bulls eye, second shot was 1/2" off the first and third was a flyer. I switched to what I planned on hunting with, hornady sst 250g. Still using 90g charge, shot 3 and checked the group. all 3 grouped 6" low and 8" right. figured they be low but suprised they were right. adjusted the sights till they where grouping around the bulls eye. Not wanting to waste the more exspensive bullet while working on steading my shot I switched back to the plinkers. Now shooting high and left????? I have read that it takes time to get to where you load and seat the bullet the same way everytime and that a slight diffence can change how it shoots but for one bullet to concistantly shoot left and another to shoot right has me scrating my head. ruled out fouling (use a spit patch between shots) because they would be everywhere, not in groups. Any insights? Is there smething affecting the shot I'm not seeing or is this usual when shooting different saybot and bullets?

Hunting Man 08-24-2012 09:07 AM

No question different bullets will group differently, generally not that much though. Second, if you're not using Black Horn powder then I'd switch right away. Make sure the scope screws are firmly set and are not working their way loose during the shooting sessions. If you find loose screws then remove them and use a thread sealant not the red, blue color, or just clear finger nail polish will work. Best advise, sight in with what you plan to hunt with then all the questions are gone. Lastly, I would see, if legal in your state, switch the ignition to 209 primers and get rid of the #11 caps. Most conversions run 30-40.00 and are well worth the money. For #11 caps I liked CCI but it has been several years since I've shot them.

Buckshot 08-24-2012 01:09 PM

I would try a heavier bullet like a 300gr hornady XTP. I used to shoot with a 240 weight but got much better results with the heavier bullet.

Unregistered 08-24-2012 09:18 PM

checked scope and everything is tight, and diffent bullets are on the way. none of the local store sell muzzleloading stuff so have order it online or take a 2 hour drive. Either way it saves to buy bulk, I'm well stocked on powder and caps. Bullets ship free so can order just a few at a time. From what I've read powder type and ignition type only make small differnce's, where as charge snd saybot/bullets can have a dig difference. I may try differnt powder once I burn thought what I got. Here's my thinking. If I shoot 3 different bullets of the same basic shape and same weight...... They will eack fly differently but still make a 3" or so group???? If I shoot 3 bullets of different wight..... they will not group because of the drop, maybe a little drift to one side other other but the elevation so be only real big difference???? or would it look like I was shooting a shot gun with random holes everywhere?

frontiergander 08-25-2012 11:41 AM

check the stock at the VERY end of the forearm. I had an evolution and once it heated up " the STOCK, Not the barrel!" it wouldnt group. I ended up having to use a file and remove a ton of stock material at the end of the forearm to relieve the pressure.

midwestprowler 12-03-2012 02:14 AM

Evolution Features
• 24” Fluted Barrel with
Premium CeraKote Finish
• Speed Load System–easy loading and more consistent groups
• Includes three ignitions–
#11, musket and 209
• Smooth glide bolt action
• 1:28” twist rifling
• Williams™ fiber optic metal sights

Traditions plinkers sight in bullets 100% lead bullet that's the problem. Just loading that bullet can deform it ez changing accuracy big time. Lead also pans out like a dish-plate in flight wind can move it big time even a slight wind. Lead also expands in barrel of gun. Hornady sst 250 is a jacketed lead core bullet will not expand in barrel & it's sabot is a super glide you should be using a tighter sabot like hph-12. If I had to guess your guns bore diameter is around .5015 -.5025 or larger.

Using such different bullets with such different sabots I can see whats wrong here & at what yardage you are shooting at will effect this big time with that 100% lead plinker bullet. I would grab some hph-12 50 cal sabots & 250g .451 long bullets. Like HM said use the same ammo to sight in as you plan to hunt with. GL MWP

midwestprowler 12-03-2012 02:58 AM

Oh I forgot to mention check the scope as others have mentioned. Screws & so on take a mirror small one with you but big enough to cover the scopes objective lens. Hold it flat on the objective lens you will see 2 sets of cross hairs one will be center the other will not may be high or low right or left. Make sure your eye is dead center of scope looking at the center cross hairs. make note of the other cross hairs position remove the mirror fire a round or to then check it again. If the uncentered cross hairs have moved you need a new scope. You can also use this method to optically zero the turrets of your scope so you have maximum adjustment available up down left right. To do this just make both sets of cross hairs line up to be one set. This is why many snipers carry a small mirror with them. Also makes a good signal for many things.

P.S. Adjusting scope zoom will effect the position of the second set of cross hairs to the center set just keep that in mind. So zoom 1st check fire check.


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