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post #41 of 48 (permalink) Old 07-09-2011, 05:21 AM Thread Starter
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seems like a long stretch on this one. Beauty better be in the eye of the beholder/owner when it's all through! MY money went where?? FG, do you have to brown the barrel and finish the stock and that's about it? What type of browning solution do you use?
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post #42 of 48 (permalink) Old 07-09-2011, 11:25 AM
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yep going to brown/polish the steel. The stock is what requires the most time. metal comes in send due to the rough casting they use. Most likely birchwood casey plumb brown. I used LMF before but the results just arent what i was looking for. No humidity here in CO.
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post #43 of 48 (permalink) Old 07-09-2011, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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There's another one that you just brush on and keep applying until you get the right color no heat no humidity required. The more the coats the darker the color. When I think of it that's the one I'll use on the next project and pass along. Memory is fading by the moment.
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post #44 of 48 (permalink) Old 07-09-2011, 03:57 PM
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You really need some humidity to get a durable finish. Browning is nothing more that letting it rust, and then stopping it.
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post #45 of 48 (permalink) Old 07-09-2011, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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Muley, Laural Mountain's barrel brown doesn't use rusting, heat or humidity for barrel browning. I have heard it does a nice job. When I did my Hawken I used heat and nitric acid to create a brown even color.
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post #46 of 48 (permalink) Old 07-09-2011, 09:05 PM
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LMF Laural Mountain Forge uses humidity for rusting. I've done around 3 or 4 barrels with it, gotta heat up the bathroom and turn the shower on hot and let it get nice and humid before it starts to work. I never seen any wipe on and brown stuff so thats new to me. If you think of the name, let me know as i'd be interested.
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post #47 of 48 (permalink) Old 07-09-2011, 11:14 PM Thread Starter
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I'm reading right from Track of the Wolf, no heat, no lengthly days cold browning, 4-6 coats 3 hours apart and your done. That doesn't sound like a rusting process, so it says on page 415 catalog # 17, Sounds almost too easy! When I heated the 54 barrel with a rose tip torch I then used tight woven white cloth and even coated the metal surfaces with the nitric acid getting an immediate browning color, After the acid browning I submerged the parts in oil to cool down and protect the new metal surfaces from further acid attack. and it all worked well maybe not to OSHA's specs but It worked. It gave a rather unique antique brown finish for the Hawken which was just what I wanted. I like LMF antique wood stains work well and can be custom mixed to make that 1 perfect color, and I think they are more concentrated and giving greather depth infusion and color. I like to mix cherry, Lancaster maple together works well after aquafortus (nitric acid, used on the bare stock to heighten the stripes in the soft tissues of the maple stock. Turns the stock yellow the using a propane torch start slowing heating the stock front to rear until the whole thing turns black. Then hit the stock with water an baking soda water solution to neutralize the acid then let dry and begin your sanding and watch the figure jump right out of the stock. It's work but man do you have some nice stripe and figure present.
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post #48 of 48 (permalink) Old 07-10-2011, 04:59 PM
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i too love their stains. I did my last GPR with honey maple and it looks great. The gentleman wants me to use honey maple stain on his GPR as well.
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