"Clicks" on a Scope adjustment
One "click" in a given direction (windage or elevation) is equivilent to 1/4 what?
Help me understand the click graduations on Scope adjusters, and the impact (inches) they make on elevation and windage.
(I wonder, if in Military terminology, that's where the idea of "clicks" came from when you'd here a soldier say, "It's 3 clicks.")
If my first shots with the 45-70 are (let's say) 3" left, and 1" low. I'll have to adjust the Scope with how many clicks (assuming to set the greater distance variant first) in either direction?
(By the way, are those knobs easily turn able by hand, or do you need a tool?
The standard sight-in distance is 100 yards.4 clicks equals 1 inch of movement at 100 yards.1 click equals 1/4 inch movement at 100 yards.Some scopes have slotted adjustment knobs(use the edge of a quarter or a screwdriver).Others are knurled for finger adjustment.
Yeah, this particular Scope (Bushnell Trophy XLT) seems to have a notched graduated movement that should be able to be moved by hand.
4 clicks = 1 inch..............got it!!! Same for both elevation and windage?
When I sight in I wait for the day with the least wind, a nice calm day is suitable. Some people like their scopes dialed in at 3 or 2 or 1 inches high on the bullseye at 100 yds. That will make up for bullet drop on those really long shots. Myself, I like the dead on at 100 yds because I won't shoot much farther than that. Just be sure to look at the dial because it tells you which direction to turn in order to get closer to your target......1 click=1/4 inch high, low, left, right- depending on what dial you are adjusting and which direction you turn it. Hope this helps.
Yep..........helps a lot! Thanks! Not zeroing in the gun on a windy day makes sense.
At 100 yards-- don't forget that part. And yes, it's the same for windage too.
To center your rifle:
Start at 25 yds with your rifle on a rest or steady on a table, I use an old sawhorse. Fire 1 shot directly at the center. If you feel like your shot was well aimed and there was no breathing problem or twitch with your shot, then don't fire another.
Now, look through your scope and put the cross hairs on the bullseye and while you steadily hold them there, have someone else adjust your elevation and windage until your cross hairs are on your first shot hole. At this point your rifle is centered.
To Zero your rifle
Now, move back to 100yds and turn your scope's magnification up as high as it can and take three very steady and comfortable shots. Go to your target with a black sharpie marker and draw a triangle around the first three shots. Now, measure in inches how far you are off from bullseye and then do the calculation 1/4 of an inch = 1 click. So if you are 2 inches to the right and 1 inch high, you'd move your scope down 4 clicks and to the left 8 clicks. Then repeat the process. Fire 3 more shots, go mark them with a triangle and repeat until you are satisfied with your grouping. Use a great deal of patience while doing this! Also, make 100% sure you are steady when each shot is taken. I recommend using a table where your back elbow can rest and your front elbow can rest AND have a sand bag to rest the forestock on.
Hope this helps!
When you adjust the scope turn it in the direction you want the bullet to go. If your high and right turn down and left. Tator said it but i think it needs emphasized. Many times at the range i see people trying to "chase" the bullet instead of "chasing the bull".
Great advice everyone!! Thanks!! I'll keep this info handy!! With regard to the screws on the top of the Receiver, that I have to take out for placement of the Weaver Base..........are they typically a slotted head screw (I didn't happen to notice, on the gun I'm picking up Sunday).
Given the fact that it's not a "new" gun, how hard will these screws be to remove?
I wonder how the new screws that come with the Weaver Base Plate are kept from being too deep in the Receiver, interfering with bullet transfer?
Yes typically factory plug screws are slotted. The base manufacturer has the makers dimensions for depth, thread size, and such. If the receiver has no surface rust or damage the screws should remove fairly easily. I dont believe the screw holes pass into the chamber.
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