Hydro Dip Coatings For Guns
So i Have been looking into this Hydro Dipping or Hydro Printing process as a coating for gun stocks and gun barrels and other misc parts... i was wondering if anyone has used this process and how durable the coating is.
there are professional companies that you can send it out to get it done for you and there are also DIY kits that you can get for around $100.00 on line... which seems like a good deal because it comes with a ton of the material and all the supplies (scuff pad etching primer and clear coat) and safety gear but the only down side to that is you are stuck with one pattern.
Thats totally fine if you want everything in your life to be Mossy Oak break up... but to get a few different parts done in different patterns it would be more practical to just get it sent out to get it professionally done.
Has anyone done this themselves or gotten their parts sent out? what are your opinions? does it hold up to the every day wear and tear?
Thinking about getting my Ruger 10/22 stock and the polymer frame on my pistol.
I bought the stuff to do it and I've posted about it on here as well before I did as well. I bought my film and activator off eBay but the " mydipkit" is probable a better route to go. But even then you could still buy different film patterns off eBay. I found out fast water temp and clean water for next dip is extremely important.
Thanks on the fly... i watched a few videos on youtube about doing it but i figured id try it on something a little less pricey than a gun stock or barrel...
one of the videos i watched the guy did like a picture frame and outlet covers and a tackle box
i will remember your tips and hints... thanks for the info... from what i have seen it is a very tricky process when it comes to water temp... air bubbles... and too much or too little activator.
I picked up a sig P226 and put desert digital camo grips on it.Now I want to do the slide to match.I talked to a few guys that have done the film dip:no:. So I got to checking around and a friend told me about duracoat. much better for guns that go to the woods and anything with moving parts. Check it out at duracoat.com, lots of patterns
Yeah if you don't get enough activator on the film it will not fully liquefy the film back to ink and if too much activator it puts holes in the film and is useless to dip. And this prosses is plenty strong for guns but you have to clear coat with a matted Finnish. Another big part is after you dip what ever it is, you must rinse off untill all the slime coat is gone.
I think what i am gonna end up doing is getting it hydro dipped then seeing if i can get a Duracoat clear coat to put over the hydro dip to protect the finish since the Duracoat is a 2 part epoxy based product it will be the best of both both worlds.
I forgot to include this one into my original post... Is it better to coat a synthetic stock or can you coat wooden parts as well... the reason i ask is because my 10/22 i just picked up has a hardwood stock that i wanted to get hydro dipped.
you can dip anything . but proper prep for the etching primer is key for any thing dipped. the water transfer film (ink) ahears its self to the primer. and you can play with your primers, like blaze orange under a camo film gives a sweet hunter orange camo. most common for primers is gray or sand/tan color to use under a camo film, you can go to auto zone or other automotive places and get a good auto etching primers and have a few diferent colors to choose from. walmart paint dont cut it. and you must dip within 24 hours of priming a part.
Thanks for all the useful info... thats the kinds stuff they don't tell you in the instructions and then you end up f-ing up your stuff. Good to know.. thanks Fly
Check out a guy by the name of Iceman on you tube, he does a great job on how to do this including tips about the water and such...
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