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02-14-2010, 09:26 AM
| | Moderator | | Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Oregon, Ohio
Posts: 5,727
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I think once you get over 300 fps its hard to see fletching. I'm shooting 2" spin vanes with 2 orange and 1 white and can't see the arrow's flight. But then my eyesight is getting worse as I get older.
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02-14-2010, 11:25 AM
|  | B&C 140 Class | | Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 745
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60LB Bear Lights Out. Beman ICS Energy 360 arrows with 100gr Magnus Stinger Buzzcuts 4 blade. | 
02-14-2010, 02:17 PM
|  | B&C 140 Class | | Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Belvidere, Illinois
Posts: 771
| | Quote:
Originally Posted by Hunting Man I think once you get over 300 fps its hard to see fletching. I'm shooting 2" spin vanes with 2 orange and 1 white and can't see the arrow's flight. But then my eyesight is getting worse as I get older. | I have the exact same problem HM, just hoping for the better, not that white vanes should help much after the impact, bright red would be a more welcome color transition.
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05-11-2010, 11:37 AM
| | Scrub Buck | | Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 20
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I bought a pse bowmadness, set it up and sold it 2 weeks later once I decided I wanted to pay my car off. As a student funds are tight and my buddy gave me what I had into it, saved him time and we have same tastes and draw length. Now that I'm working full time I'm picking up a Fred Bear Assault. Little cheaper than the bow madness and I really like the package deal as a starter setup minus the biscuit. I'll be replacing that with a QAD drop away right away. Shooting Easton super slams, yes I still use aluminum I love the price and don't have problems. Muzzy 3 blade 100 grain brodheads, WalMart broadheads ( whatever is on sale) for groundhogs as they get smoked shooting into dirt. Loved the bowmadness while I had it but after shooting the Assault I can't look at anything else in the 500 dollar range.
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05-24-2010, 04:20 PM
|  | B&C 100 Class | | Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Elberta PA
Posts: 36
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Im currently using a PSE lightning flite
It only has a one pin sight thinking about getting new sights
any suggestions
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"Second is just the first loser." Dale Earnhardt
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05-29-2010, 07:01 PM
|  | B&C 140 Class | | Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Belvidere, Illinois
Posts: 771
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Updated
2009 X force Treestand GX @70# 27" draw
381gr Goldtip pro hunters 2" Blazers, muzzy 100gr 4 blades broadhead
Tru-fire 360 Elite release, Whisker bisquit, tru glo site and radical peep. 286 FPS 69 ft lbs KE | 
06-14-2010, 11:02 PM
| | Scrub Buck | | Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 23
| | What is everyone shooting?
I have had alot of different bows over the years and now I am currently shooting the Mathews (Adrenilen) Smooth, quite, lightweight and foregiving.
I think it's all what you are comfortable with and what fits within your budget.
If you have an older bow that you just can't seem to hit good with anymore, Go to the local bow shop and have the tech check it out for you.
I have found out from past experience that sometimes its not YOU!!! OR THE BRAND, MAKE OF THE BOW, OR HOW OLD ITS, It can be something very simple like:
1) Your string has stretched so much that your draw length has grown (overtime) and the bow does not fit you correctly anymore. This happens so gradually that you don,t even realize it!!! What you are doing is compensating with you body which is throwing your "form" off!!. You need "Stretch" in the string. Over time, the "Life" has been shot out of the string!! If you shoot alot, I would recommend changing the string every 2 years max! This is cheap insurance, and makes those "string plucks" still, keep your arrow close to the bullseye. Forgivness if you will.
2) Your "Tiller" may have come out of adjustment. (I could write a whole artical on this one) But I will keep it short. This can be caused from various things like the turns on each limb need to be adjusted to the correct settings, the cables have moved out of adjustment or slipped within the locking screws or even streach of the cables or strings over time.
The Bottom line is, A good bow shop tech will start at the basics, Correct Draw length to fit you!!! Set "tiller", Set arrow rest horizontal & vertical, Tune your bow for no fletch interferance and make sure all components are in good working condition.
Something else very simple that has hurt alot of archers is that they simply try to shoot more weight then they admit they can handle!!
More weight is ok for hunting, but you need to work up to it. Never try to tune your bow in just one night or make all you final sight adjustments one night before the deer season. Rather, take a few nights and adjust one site at a time to make sure it is right. (Fitigue sets in and all you efforts can be worthless)
A bow is like a vehical, unless it is matained and tuned correctly, it just wont be running on all clyinders and you will be skipping you way to work. We wouldn't want that, especilly when that Buck-of-A-Lifetime shows up!!!
The "BuckSlayer"
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06-26-2010, 11:08 PM
| | Scrub Buck | | Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 3
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Parker Wildfire bow here
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07-15-2010, 08:49 PM
|  | B&C 120 Class | | Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Citra,Fl
Posts: 254
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Parker extreme ultra-lite 31.Just installed new tru-glo sites and changed to a octane,hostage rest.set at 60#,28.5" draw and carbon express 30" arrows,blazer vanes and tipped with muzzy 100g 3 blade.Will start practiceing this weekend.This will be like starting over from scratch.I havent used a bow in about 15 years since my injury.Dont know how it will work out,but hope it does.
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Born on a mountain raised in a cave huntin and fishin is all I crave
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07-16-2010, 04:13 PM
| | B&C 140 Class | | Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: new york
Posts: 811
| | learning again
start shooting on a blank bale eyes closed for a month,just concentrate on the feel of the shot.Believe me this will be the fastest way to get u shooting right in the long run.Keep your draw weight manageable then start shooting 5yds, 10yds, etc.Highly recommend books by al Henderson or bernie pellerite you will improve drastically.
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