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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-29-2008, 08:36 PM Thread Starter
B&C 100 Class
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: North Mississippi
Posts: 75
Paper Tuning

I ve seen it done by two different bow shops two different ways. One was right up next to the paper, and one was from about fifteen yards. They also both had different explanations or how they did it. The one up close said that the arrow shows truer movement from closer up with no chance of anything effecting the flight. The one from fifteen yards said that up close the bow puts so much force on the arrow that it flexes strait out of the bow. I do most of my own bow work and was wondering what yall thought about the different ways to tune it. Hope that wasn't confusing.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-30-2008, 05:06 AM
B&C 100 Class
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 75
The range I go to all the guys tune up close,read the hole then adjust.I might have to experiment,tune close ands then see what it does at 15 yds.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-30-2008, 01:38 PM
B&C 100 Class
 
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Beaux, you say you work on your own bow,heres a tip you might try if you dont already know it. Take a bolt that is about 4 inches long and screw it into your stabilizer hole and then take an allen wrench that fits the limb pocket bolt and cut the long end so when inserted into the bolt the short end sits closer to the bow make sure the small end is turned up as straight as possible without turning the bolt.Now take a large rubber band and hook it on the allen wrench,then stretch it and hook it to the bolt coming from the stabilizer hole,now nock an arrow and with the shaft sitting on the rest and inbetween the rubberband you can measure the distance between each side of the shaft and the rubberband.Now read the hole in your paper and should only have to adjust for nock high or nock low.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-30-2008, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: North Mississippi
Posts: 75
sounds good

Yeah that makes sense how that would work. I appriciate the tip Im always looking for new tips and ideas on how to do the same thing different ways. I do all the work I can to my bow. I have a friend who owns a bow shop that showed me how they do everything. I have learned though that bow work is not done the same way by everyone and I like to find the best ways for me. Thanks for the tips.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-31-2008, 05:47 AM
B&C 100 Class
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 75
No problem,I dont know much but what I do know Ill share,if its wrong someone will definately chime in and correct it . Their is alot of years of knowledge on this site.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-04-2008, 03:13 PM
Scrub Buck
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 15
the bow shops in my home town all paper tune from up close and i asked the same ? u did they said as the arrow travels the fletchings actually stabilize it so you wouldnt be able to tell how the arrow is leaving the bow. hope it help and happy hunting
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-04-2008, 03:30 PM
Scrub Buck
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 9
alot of the shops around here (MI) are saying that it is not necessary to paper tune anylonger I dont know if this is true or not but I do know that my Bow Tech shoots straight and it has never been paper tuned
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-04-2008, 03:30 PM
wmi
B&C 140 Class
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Maryland
Posts: 790
The hunter/shooter must ALWAYS paper tune his/her own bow. Diff grip, diff hand size , diff form. Never rely on the bow shop to do all of your work. This too was one of my early mistakes.
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