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Does a suppresser actually reduce recoil???

4K views 8 replies 5 participants last post by  MICHAEL 
#1 · (Edited)
hi everyone I am seriously thinking about buying a whetherby vanguard suppressed package with a new zealand gunworks suppressor which claims that it reduces up to 50% of the recoil and it is going to set me back about NZ$2350 and I want it reduce recoil and wanted to be sure.
And also I am interested in a savage stevens supressed package which is far cheaper at NZ$1500 and it comes with a 4-12x40 scope and the other comes with a 3-9x40 scope. And was wondering which one would be better value for money and would the savage stevens suppresser do the same as the whetherby?
left-whetherby vanguard \ right-savage stevens
 
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#2 ·
never used one sorry cant help
 
#3 ·
Michael, you are asking lots of good questions and that's what this site is about - we older and more experienced guys passing on what we have learned to young hunters just like you.
I have had lots of rifles and calibers during 50 years of hunting, and I have one rifle with a muzzle brake which is what I believe you are asking about. The brake does reduce recoil, but at a price. With most brakes, gases are released to the sides of the muzzle. This makes the gun sound MUCH louder. Even with ear protection you and anyone next to you will hear the difference. It is not pleasant. Also, the brakes make the barrel over an inch longer which could create the problem of poking the barrel into the ground or snow or catching on a tree limb that you are passing under. They add a couple of ounces of weight to your rifle as well.
To be honest, I wish I hadn't put one on my rifle.
Here is what I would recommend if recoil is bothering you: Get yourself a really good recoil pad like a Limbsaver or Kickeez. These really work well. The recoil doesn't go away, but feels more like a big push than a hard sharp poke in the shoulder. When I was your age, we didn't have such effective pads. As a matter of fact, the first 30/06 Remington Model 700 that I had came with a STEEL butt pad. Now, THAT was PAINFUL!! Good luck and great hunting!
 
#4 ·
Michael, I just took another look at the rifle pictures you posted and those barrels look ridiculously long to me. You might just as well put a bayonet on the end of them and stab whatever you are hunting!
But all kidding aside, there are some absolutely fine shooting and carrying rifles around that cost more than a thousand dollars less than those at which you are looking. For example, a couple of years ago I bought a Tikka 3 Lite stainless/synthetic for under $500. It is guaranteed to shoot 1 inch groups @ 100 yards and it does every time I shoot it. It is the most accurate rifle I have ever owned, and everyone I have spoken with who owns one says the same thing.
Also, when you write about scopes I'm not sure what you mean by "9-40" or "12-40". Is that 9 to 40 power and 12 to 40, or 9 power or 12 power with a 40 mm objective lense? In the first instance, that's more power than any hunting situation would ever need.
My recommendation: get the Tikka. Put a Leupold 3-9 power scope on it. Total cost around $800, and you will be all set for a lifetime of hunting.
Good luck and great hunting!
 
#6 ·
Michael, I have shot 444 marlin, 375 win, 38-55, 300 wm, 270 wm, 3 1/2"heavy goose load and a host of other heavy hitters. None of these were too much gun at the time, but now I prefer simple bullets like 300 sav and 270 win, and if I decide to post a bid on a 1960 clean winchester pre 64 model 88 in 308 cal. For PA hunting i think it would be perfec for this ageing hunter finish up my eastern hunting with.
 
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